The observer will notice that there is a huge time gap between my last post and this one. As much as I blame insane work schedules and the duties of being a father to a one year old, there are other reasons for my inactivity. A lack of followers and some negative feedback literally took the creative wind out of my sails… That is, until last weekend.
Last Saturday the planets aligned, God smiled upon my life and brought the vectors of two men whose work I admire to an intersection on sacred ground. The first of these men is Chef Paul Kahan. I first pledged my allegiance to Chef Kahan in 2007 after, literally, the first bite of his sweet breads with black truffles and dill (thymus gland with mushroom-like fungus). The meal that followed that fateful bite only solidified my admiration and started me on a quest to find equally delicious and pioneering food. (Specifically, offal.) So when rumors began circulating in the culinary world that Paul Kahan was opening a taco stand my curiosity and appetite declared that a pilgrimage was in order!
BIG STAR
Drive North on Damen from the United Center long enough and you’ll find yourself enveloped by the neighborhood known as Wicker Park. This neighborhood adorned with art studios, micro-galleries, and intimate concert venues once hailed as the artistic focal point of Chicago. Although the area strives to maintain its artistic roots, it seems the white-collar has made the neighborhood a trendy place to live and play. (That’s a discussion for another day… I’m looking at you Wrigleyville.)
If you drive to Wicker park in search of a restaurant that “looks” like it’s run by a Michelin Star winning chef, you will undoubtedly reach Bucktown before you realize that you missed it. My very first impression of Big Star was that the great chef seamlessly inserted his new venture into the unique atmosphere that is Wicker Park. I took this first shot of Big Star while waiting to cross the street with my wife and my son in his high-speed, space age stroller. I wanted to capture the idea that Big Star is camouflaged, but also focus on destination.
Along with its unassuming facade, the fact that no sign screaming, “THIS IS BIG STAR!!!” in bright letters may cause one to walk right by. No, the only indication that you are in the right place, and that it is a special place, is found in my next photograph. After taking the image and working it into something that I felt fit the mood of the location, I quickly placed it in the “best shot of the day” column in my mind. With a little research into the symbology, this photograph has become one of my all time favorites. (See why below)
THIS IS BIG STAR
Then there’s the food…
There are two ways to experience the fare at Big Star. The first is for the eater on the run and truly embraces the idea of the Mexican “street food” that I remember from my childhood. At a window orders are placed and food is passed from cook to customer. The patron may then walk off, sit on a curb, or make new friends at one of the communal picnic tables. My wife and I on this leisurely Saturday opted for the long route. After a considerable wait, my cell phone rang with news that a table had opened up. Upon reaching our table it was easy to see why we had waited so long to be seated. The atmosphere alone: with its speakers belching the songs of 30’s and 40’s country western legends; a 6 page whiskey menu, 27 varieties of tequila and mescal, and a beer menu that ranged from Schlitz to Three Floyds made one want to never leave. (And they’re cool with that!)
I come from a long line of what I would call professional guacamole makers. So when my wife made the quarter back sneak of ordering guacamole from a restaurant I began to fear my status in the will. Mom, look away… It was outstanding, perhaps some of the best I had ever had! Next came an order of the Queso Fundido with homemade tortillas. The combination of melted Chihuahua cheese, roasted green chile, and homemade chorizo created a lava like consistency of melty goodness in a tortilla. The spice was just enough to call on my frosty Gumball head ale about every three bites. I could have ended my meal there and gone home a “happy human,” but remember… This was a pilgrimage!
As my entrée, I chose three different tacos from a variety of choices. First was the “Taco al Pastor” which consisted of marinated, spit roasted pork shoulder covered in grilled pineapple, onion, and cilantro. Second was a fish taco of Tilapia topped with chipotle mayo, cabbage, cilantro, and lime. These first two tacos were great to say the least, however, my last taco was in a league all its own. It was the “Taco de Panza” which was crispy, braised pork belly topped with tomato guajillo sauce, queso fresco, onion and cilantro. This single taco in one sitting made a place for itself in my death-bed meal. All in all, the food at Big Star exceeded my expectations. Chef Kahan’s attention to detail and use of quality ingredients can be tasted and seen throughout the menu.
The Second Man…
Big Star was not the only reason I found myself in Wicker Park that Saturday afternoon. Thanks to a little birdy, I knew that if i searched the tables at Big Star I would find the second reason that this particular trip was a pilgrimage. With a little recon from our server, I found him. In the third booth from the entrance sat the personification of Chicago. Tattooed in familiar art and wearing a collection of vintage clothes sat the poet, writer, actor, and artist Tony Fitzpatrick. Having read his writing and enjoyed his art, I had always wanted to meet him. Remember my photograph from above of the Big Star? After some research I came to find out that the star was actually created by Tony Fitzpatrick. He described the star as, “…Blinking over the city of Chicago at night, illuminating old-time bars, cigars, and gamblers’ trinkets.” He also said, “It was created for the diverse working class people of the neighborhood and it stands for the labor movement of the Polish, Mexican, Irish, Slovian, Puerto Rican, and Italian immigrants of Wicker Park.”
I admire Tony not only for his work, but because of how much he loves his city and ignores his critics. As I shook his meaty fist and asked him to sign a book, we engaged in a conversation. He asked me to sit and moved some spent taco plates in order to sign my book as he introduced me to his son. In our short conversation I realized he was the real deal and he created what he loved. The fact that anyone recognized his talent was pure coincidence.
So what do Paul Kahan and Tony Fitzpatrick have to do with my new found inspiration?
Those who know me, know that I rarely leave the house without a camera. I photograph EVERYTHING! In a week I will open my shutter over a hundred times. Most of my shots find themselves in an electronic trash can. However, once in a while I get lucky and produce an image that I fall in love with. These chosen few are processed and placed in a folder that I keep next to my bed. Perhaps out of fear of criticism or embarrassment, these photos rarely are seen by anyone else. So taking a page out of Kahan’s and Fitzpatrick’s books, I choose to change the direction of my blog. I look to display what I love, critics be damned. Sure Fitzpatrick could “dumb” down his art and make it more malleable to the masses. He could clean up his writing so more people would read it. Paul Kahan could close his street food venue and make one hell of a living charging $150 per person to eat at Blackbird. But they won’t because at the end of the day they love what they create. For that THEY are my Big Stars.
"For Louis a new pal." -Tony Fitzpatrick